Nigeria

When I arrived, 20 years later, it was as if I hadn't left.  Yes, the landscaping had changed, but the foundation was left the same.  The structural feeling of home embraces you, as you pass the walls that sheltered me and my ancestors from the elements of life, and the evils of mankind. Beyond that, it is the smell that surrounds you, as it squeezes you in a timeless embrace. The smell was that of burnt firewood, burnt metal pots and pans, smoked and charred into the red clay walls that hit the back of your nostril like a sharp knife as the spices and ingredients wafted into your senses. I was back after 20 years, yet my present memories persisted...just locked in a time capsule, waiting to find a new purpose.  The compound was as I remembered it, but so was me to it. I was excited with nostalgia. My family homestead: that of my forefathers, father-fathers, fathers’ kingdom. Now my own.  I sat there in the same room they all once sat, a modest 12 x 18 x 8 ft space with it dilapidated walls, which shrouded our history with tales from afterlife.  Here I sat, where meals they shared, words they spoke, hardships fought, love kindled, lessons learned and memories faded, but not washed away. Hanging on the walls were pictures, in frames, a visual soliloquy of generations long before my time that people may forget, but history would never erase.  Life demands it.  A litmus test of growth, as layers of memories leach unto another from the core of the homestead down to offspring.

The red furniture from our old home stood mismatched with the tatted wooden bench with the fallen arches from many uses beyond its initial purpose. The stories it would tell.  To see them as they were felt like you were in a museum, and they were not to be sat in, if even for a short while, for fear they may break. But maybe, just maybe, if you sat on them long enough, the stories these inanimate objects had heard would permeate through your skin, and make you believe it was not just a memory, but a living dream.  To my left was the room my grandmother slept in, and to the right, the kitchen prep area where Jeri cans were used and reused interchangeably for drinking and cooking water, palm oil, palm wine, and kerosene. It was also my first encounter with being drunk as a result, chugging the sweet fermented nectar of the palm wine I mistook for water to quench my thirst. I stumbled onto the compound in my drunken 6-year-old body. I laid there feeling the energy sap out from my breathe, as the heat and inebriated state of alcohol poisoning took its course.  Memories live on.


The rain poured, as it does in Nigeria, where drops once pitted against the zinc roofing, now streamed unto the channel grooves unto the ground below.  The rich red hue of the earth blessed the soils nutrients, but brought challenges to its caretakers. As the latter made it a disaster to create roads and throughways to travel anywhere in under 30 minutes.  As a result, streets eroded like sugar cubes in water, creating puddles of muddy waters – the anathema to the people’s blues. The silence of time.  

If you’re in Nigeria, yes, anywhere in Nigeria, just plan on waiting. You will wait in traffic, wait in line, wait out of line, and wait for the line to move so you can enter a different line. You get the point. But, I…love…my…country. I love its people, its places, the things it lacks and the things that make it beautiful.  It is those same things that make it a conversation piece on the mouth of its citizens, as they are the only ones that can speak truthfully about its inadequacies, yet are encouraged by its potential. It saddens me to see the ratio of poverty in this day in age, an unexpected scale stricken by what can only be thought of as indifference. That is the culprit. I have never been more humbled by the smiles on faces I pass on the street as they exchange pleasantries, and divulge their hopes and dreams. How proud it makes me to see them in their ethnic clothing, their community and their semblance of God in everything, I mean everything that they do.  Afrocentricity redefined by dignified leadership, accountability, and respect. And maybe that’s just it. This is a land, a people stagnant in their ways, holding unto to cultural values that stitch in outside influences, but in fact are unapologetic about their timeless identity in the face of modernity.

Some say home is where the heart is. Well, I carry it with me every day.  Made in Nigeria, I'm proud to be Nigerian, despite its challenges, its wasted material amidst a potential of people that give me hope and despair in the same breath.  They are its engine, its beloved, its heart, although heavy at times, they carry it with pride every day.  Beating at their own pace, yet in unison. I am happy to call this place my home, despite my best efforts, my heart speaks for itself. 

 

 

 

 

Cancun

It wasn't an immersion as much as it was an excursion.

The sun beamed down on my forehead, but it was comfortable. Overlooking the beach was the concrete shadows of hotels upon hotels that stretched for miles and miles, posting their well to do manicured lawns boasting one superiority in luxury awards than their neighbor.
                           
You need a taxi...Where you going, let me take you? Taxi amigo? Taxi my friend? If I needed a taxi, let's just say I knew there were plenty on offer as there is no shortage of idle men sleeping, loitering waiting for business to be picked up...literally.  It's disheartening to walk by them. To imagine everyday could be like this.  The street market census was no better, each jockeying one another to see who can rip you off the most. They all sell the same merchandise, and insists they are giving you the best price. $30 dress , but "don't tell my boss I give it to you for $25 right now show me the money. I barterred him down to  $13, which I still feel was too much, but I understand they too must make a living. 

In the evening I passed by these 2 women every night on my way to get supper, selling garments and rif-raf not worth a peso, let alone a glance, but it was the desperation in their eyes that got to me. Insisting I should look at their merchandise, I learned to say no, politely, but eventually guilt can move a man to do things. A dollar for your effort, and no more. I felt I had paid her to not bother me on my stroll.  She didn't the next day, or the day after . Money speaks louder than words. I would say though, that they are a proud people -- whose hard work and joyful nature permeates to one another.

I took a ferry boat to 'Isles Mujeres,' which roughly translates to 'island of women.' It's about 5 miles long and on the south end lies a reef where I told snorkeling was a must. I had planned to go by foot to the north side, but again, the echo of  "need a taxi" was never to far out of ear shot.  "How much it would be to go to the south end?" My bargaining skills were poor, as I started out way too high, and offered to pay him $9 for a fairly short ride. Upon the end of our journey and arrival to the reef, I realized I had just $9 dollars left and a credit card. This was a dilemma. Knowing I would need to get back cashless, cause there is no way I was swiping my card in any cabs slot. I made a deal with the driver to come pick me up at 3pm, and I would figure it out then. The beach was short, and I started my snorkeling adventure with my mini-muvi camera. My fascination with the water and what lies beneath is only highlighted by the pure enjoyment I find in being in a niche, an ecosystem of fascinating creatures. Yes, there is life in the ocean water as it carries you, edging you to go further and deeper to explore it's inner secrets as if it's shores were just a tasteful appetizer to the entree that awaits.

Speak Easy

Bangkok, Thailand, a country of many markets and attractions.  We came here with many assumptions, and found many to be true. But in truth, the place is honest and full of hard working people whose religious faith finds its place in every greeting and goodbye. As you clasp your hands together, you pay homage to centuries of old traditions and timeless artifacts. In its shadow, the modernity of sprawling hotel buildings alongside homes, ram shackled next to one another, which double as a personal business for selling the next best thing you can bargain for cheaper at the neighbors homeshack, a few steps further down.

We found the company of one another the best, as we knew and only spoke 3 words (kap kun krar, sa wa di ka, and tai roob -- thank you, hello/goodbye, and picture please respectively) of the language, and understood nothing, except for the same replies.  A simple greeting, hello and goodbye shapes the daily life routine; where everyone seems to begin with a positive note and end on a high note.  The clasp of the hands is like a hug that awaits an embrace from the lips, which usher the greeting that envelope the fingers and seal the recipients reply. To get through 5 days in a foreign country with three words, basic gestures, a smile, and the point finger was fantastically nothing. We should do better to get to know one another…to be more present…to get connected. This I would say though,
is something we had never done before, in a different culture, thousands of miles away, across many mountains, through the sands of time, to be welcomed to a parlor where words are lost in translation.

Musical chairs

7/15/07

Sunny Rollins.  The concert was really unexplainable.  I had heard his music, heard of him, but I tell you, there is nothing like a live experience with a man, a group, that has worked at their craft for what may seem like eternity.  You can tell, they are still perfecting it, as their faces still grimace to reach notes atop a mountain of blues, a well of jazz, and a encore of applause.  With age, some might say comes wisdom, but so should the physiological and biological aspects.  Through a mirror, or my eyes, Sunny looks well into his 60's, or mid 70's... or the wrong side of either  But I tell you, his lungs are of that of a whale…a big Beluga whale.  His chops where unrelentless in the arpeggios he played…the skits,the skats, the 15 minute solo which seemed like 40 minutes….and only to continue as if he had merely just warmed up.  For me, who was once a saxophonists, his tenor older brother takes some serious lungs, but with more attitude.  Sunny had the perfect compliment combo of both.  Not once did he take a water break.  Not once did the intermission between songs last more than 10 seconds at most.  And the entire set lasted from 9:00pm-11:30pm.  You tell me how many men his age have that type of character, let alone stamina to go that distance.  Yes, he is in a class of 1.  His entourage included a bassists, a guitarist, a drummer, a trombone player, and a talking drum percussionist.  Each was exceptional in their own right.  Guitarist ripped..simply said, he ripped a few big ones.  The bassist bounced and bumbled through like train steaming down the valley of a cold mountain.  The drummer was in space…beating on the earth like it stole something, and loving it.  Now, I may regret saying this tomorrow, but my favorite in so may ways was the talking drum percussionist.  Oh, he made love in front of an audience of a few thousand, and never once blinked.  He never hesitated, he cried right, or was that the drum, cause that was some good loving. He smacked, flipped, rolled, tickled, brushed, and "ed" those instruments, as if they were the only things that meant anything in life to him. Maybe they were.  I can't wait to feel that way about something.  The trombonist was baaaad.  I mean baaddd…that's baadd meaning good, not baaad meaning bad.  Wicked licks, and precision on an instrument that you judge and guess where the notes lie, he was geographer..for he had mapped those metals poles before.  Sliding through each note like a smoothie with all the right ingredients.  Sunny, Sunny, Sunny.  Dio ti benedico!!!  You brought back that feeling I get when I know life is too good to me, and to live it fuller everyday… and I know you know, its been a while.  Despite his old age, watching him made me feel younger an stronger…letting me know I can become something of myself.  This is what I see in my parents, my brothers, sisters, and friends.  Its when I go elsewhere and see others reaching for these heights, and understand the words we say, in whatever language we speak at the time, it makes the heart beat a little faster  I hope to one day stand before an audience and be that light, that spark, that ignites the mind of others.  If not, I can still learn more, in becoming a man.  One with ideals, "broad, pure, inspiring ends of living." (W.E.B.DuBois, Souls of Black Folk)  The glory of bringing about a birth and not an abortion feels good.  If I could explain how good this last month has been to me, I would.  I never knew how a world so far away, could be so kind and welcoming to me.  I may have come alone, but I am leaving with many friends.  

 

 

 

The Souls of Black Folk (Dover Thrift Editions)
$1.00
By W. E. B. Du Bois, William Edward Burghardt Du Bois
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Beautiful by nature

"Look, would you look at that."

"What...the color...its blue?"

"Yeah, but I bet you've never seen that hue of blue before."  

-Turks & Caicos Islands was a special place for many reasons.  First, it was where my wife and I chose to get married, accompanied by the adventurous spirit of our family and friends who came along for the celebration.  Second, The island was, as the saying goes, simply "beautiful by nature."  Untouched by urban development, with no traffic lights to stop you, you could drive from one paved end of Providenciales, round then round, then round the roundabout to the other end within 25 min.  Along the unpaved roads, riddled with stones the size of fox holes, the dust laden path brims the shocks of the tires on our rental car with humility of the old adage "of the beating path" sets into our bones.    As night approaches, the stars glisten along the dusk sky, serenading the passage of our journey like lanterns of eternity.  We found the experience tranquil & evolving.  The island itself felt untamed with possibilities, yet refined by the economy of high end tourism and cultured taste. With no bazaars, or pesky patron trying to sell you paraphernalia, it brought a touch of class to an already proud set of inhabitants. 

Home, that’s where we felt we were once we walked in to the Windchaser Villas: Alizé. It was built with serene foresight, and hindsight.  Bleached, weathered white walls, contrast against gray wood accents, the villas is equipped with every amenities imaginable.  Behind villa lay the backdrop of windsurfers slicing through the blue horizon.  There was nothing we did not love. The road to get here may have been bumpy, but the destination was nothing less than exhilarating. I would dissuade anyone from visiting WCV, it may loose it charm and muddle its pride. But I say this in a selfish thought, when in my hearts or heart, it is an experience everyone should have. One I plan on having again.  However you choose to reach Providenciales, pack lightly, and don't over prepare.  Just remember, keep left!